Jackson Hole and Yellowstone
Flying into Jackson airport was just such a cool experience. The airport itself is just a dinky little thing, but the scenery is monster because the airport is right at the base of the Grand Teton range. It's the only US airport completely contained within a national park - and let me tell you : pray for clear weather and be sure to book a window seat because coming in for a landing is nothing short of five star nature porn.
After finding our rental car and drooling over the scenery, we found our way into Jackson - where we'd booked a room at the Best Western Plus (now the Lodge at Jackson Hole). It's just outside of downtown, but we needed a place that could stow our luggage and hold it for us for a few days while we were on trail. This turned out to be a great choice, because not only did they do that for us, but there was attractive dead stuff on the walls. Mark approves. *two thumbs up*
But let me back up a bit first.
This trip actually started in late 2011 - because like every other high-use long trail in the country, hiking the Teton Crest Trail requires a permit. And to get the permit, you have to apply. Which happens on a specific day and time in January every year, which means you basically have to commit to day, time and place several months in advance. So like every other masochistic hiker out there, you dutifully fill out an application that details the trail you want to take, the campsites you want to use (first, second and third choices for each day out on the trail), pay the associated fees, and then pray you're quicker on the draw than several million other backcountry lovers who have the same idea you do.
We got lucky - and our first-choice itinerary was ours. Once in Jackson, we had to pick up our permit (along with a few other items we couldn't take with us on the plane, like fuel canisters and bear spray) at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. So we planned a day to do that, plus head up to Teton Village to check it out and see where the tram to the trailhead was located. We ate lunch and spent time exploring - and decided Day 2 it was on to Yellowstone, which is about an hour and a half drive from Jackson. Worth every minute we spent there - and about 10,080 more.
This trip actually started in late 2011 - because like every other high-use long trail in the country, hiking the Teton Crest Trail requires a permit. And to get the permit, you have to apply. Which happens on a specific day and time in January every year, which means you basically have to commit to day, time and place several months in advance. So like every other masochistic hiker out there, you dutifully fill out an application that details the trail you want to take, the campsites you want to use (first, second and third choices for each day out on the trail), pay the associated fees, and then pray you're quicker on the draw than several million other backcountry lovers who have the same idea you do.
We got lucky - and our first-choice itinerary was ours. Once in Jackson, we had to pick up our permit (along with a few other items we couldn't take with us on the plane, like fuel canisters and bear spray) at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. So we planned a day to do that, plus head up to Teton Village to check it out and see where the tram to the trailhead was located. We ate lunch and spent time exploring - and decided Day 2 it was on to Yellowstone, which is about an hour and a half drive from Jackson. Worth every minute we spent there - and about 10,080 more.
The drive from Jackson to Yellowstone is no slouch, you guys.
WHAT IS THIS BEAUTYMAGIC MY EYEBALLS CAN'T TAKE IT
I had no idea what Yellowstone had in store for us. I expected to maybe be mildly impressed. NOPE. We were absolutely blown away from the minute our tires touched NPS ground. Yellowstone Lake (below) is stunning - and then, when you look a bit closer, you realize... it's... it's BUBBLING. As in boiling. Yellowstone Lake is boiling. Totally normal, right? Try to forget there is a massive super volcano stirring from its ancient slumber directly beneath your feet.
Except that you can't forget it, because everywhere you look, the landscape is gargling and steaming and MURDERING TREES WHERE THEY STAND. And it STINKS, y'all. To high heaven. There is nothing about this place the smells even remotely right. But you get used to it - because your primitive brain synapses are all like OMG LOOK AT THIS REMARKABLE SHIT! and you can't help yourself. You just can't. Suddenly you're sprinting up hillsides to stick your face in a giant sulphur oven because it's the coolest shit you've ever seen. Even if you shorten your lifespan by a few days or years because your brain is having trouble finding a single oxygen molecule amidst all the stench, it will be worth it. I promise.
And while you're distracted by earth farts and geyser explosions, suddenly there are elk babies and mule deer and bison everywhere. On a steamy hillside. In the woods. On the side of the road. In the middle of the road. On the open plains.
Hey buddy
Oh wait - what's that? No big deal - just a WOLF IN THE WILD
doing wolf things, as they do
doing wolf things, as they do
Because we only had one day, we skipped the crowded western area of Old Faithful and instead took a tour of the colorful
and ever-changing Norris Geyser Basin. Yellowstone is a chromatic wonderland, and an assault on all your senses.
and ever-changing Norris Geyser Basin. Yellowstone is a chromatic wonderland, and an assault on all your senses.
I HAZ ITCHY
After looping up past the geysers and past Mammoth Hot Springs, we circled over to Yellowstone Falls and on
our way back out past the lake found a few fresh wolf tracks.
our way back out past the lake found a few fresh wolf tracks.
If you're brave enough to descend all ten million stairs to the viewing platform next to Yellowstone Falls, knowing full well you're going to have to haul your fat ass back up them again when you haven't adjusted to altitude, just know it's possible you might be rewarded with a rainbow. Totally worth the death march if you are. (I blame the elevation).
Back in Teton Country, we stopped to marvel at the mountains and the glorious golds of autumn which was on its way,
even if the daytime temps didn't show it. Nature knows its cycle, and it stops for no one.
even if the daytime temps didn't show it. Nature knows its cycle, and it stops for no one.
We also got a quick glimpse of a few elk on the hillsides of the refuge back near town.
We returned our rental car to the airport because we wouldn't be needing it anymore, and grabbed a taxi back to the hotel
to repack our gear and crawl into bed, because the 7 am START bus comes early.
to repack our gear and crawl into bed, because the 7 am START bus comes early.
All photos are © Sugarjets Studio - all rights reserved. Please don't steal them. Stealing is shitty.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.