Day 9: Godafoss to Olafsfjordur

Route :
Ring Road all the way

Campsite : Brimnes Hotel and Cabins, Ólafsfjördur
He hates me for this photo. But this van was really comfortable! We slept better in the van than in the one cabin we rented.
Sunrise at the Waterfall of the Gods.
Since it was pretty late when we got to the campground the night before (and we were BEAT), I wanted to check out Godafoss
again in the morning light. So worth getting un-snuggled in the cold morning air.
We walked down to the river this time instead of staying up at the canyon rim - but it doesn't matter where you're at. Godafoss is a stunner.
It's not a place you're likely to spend a ton of time - but I'd definitely recommend visiting at sunrise or sunset if you can make it work.
Photos don't do any part of this country justice. It's nature porn everywhere you look.
On the road toward Akureyri.
And you're driving, and you're driving, and you're driving...
...and then all of a sudden you come around a corner and you're staring at the stunning Trollaskagi Peninsula (or Peninsula of the Troll).
We were headed to Olafsfjördur in the northern part of that peninsula for our next night's stop.
Our first peek at Akureyri - Iceland's second largest city. And it's just as charming as Reykjavik. Parking in town is a bit... peculiar, though. We lucked out because it was Saturday - but during the week, you have to track down a bank or a gas station and get a plastic parking clock to place in your windshield, set to the time you parked in your spot. Parking is free, but you'll get fined if you overstay the maximum amount of time allowed for your particular space (typically 15 minutes to 2 hours), or if you fail to find yourself a plastic clock.
Akureyri is a colorful, artsy city. There's a whole art section that we completely missed because we were on a schedule - and I'm sad we didn't get to see it. But there are creative touches everywhere you look - from the buildings to the street lights.
We stopped at a street cart for for lunch and got pylsur - the blankets were a nice touch, and were provided by the vendor.   :)

We got chased out by a bee. Actually I got chased out of Akureyri in general by bees. Like everywhere else, they're restless and more aggressive at this time of year. And like everywhere else,  THEY CAN SMELL MY FEAR.
In case you were wondering if Iceland can do doughnuts. Yes - yes, they can.
North of Akureyri, we found more horses. Still not a nose scritch to be had - but I LOVE THEM ANYWAY.
So we were early for my planned surprise because I allowed myself to be bullied by bees.
So we found this VERY ugly area and used the opportunity to just relax for a bit.
Proof that this man can sleep anytime, anywhere.
When it was finally time, we headed here.
To the Beer Spa.
We literally bathed in beer. And not just any beer - actually the best beer Mark had in Iceland. And somehow I did not know until writing this post that the Bruggsmidjan brewery that makes the beer is just down the road - and that you can take a tour of the brewery, and get samples. And keep your glass. Had I known that, we would have done that, too. Just one more thing to put on the list for when we go back to get our Icelandic horses... right, honey? 
The photos are terrible, but you get the idea - big wooden barrel tub, filled with fresh, hot-tub temp beer, next to a cold kegger of Kaldi on tap and two glasses - and it's all your nekked self can drink for the next 30 minutes. Mark did his best to make the humiliation worth his while.
It's not actually finished beer that you bathe in - no, they bottle that shit and sell it for $26 a six-pack. The bath is a combination of young beer, water, hops and live brewer's yeast. There's no alcohol in it - that's why they give you the tap.  :)

When your 30 minutes are up, they whisk you away in your robes and escort you upstairs to a dark, quiet room. You're given a comfortable lounge chair to lie on, and they tuck you in under a warm, heavy blanket so that the herbs and minerals from the beer bath have the opportunity to really soak in - it's supposed to be really good for your skin. You're with a group of up to 12 other people up there - so when the snoring started with our group, so did the giggles.
He didn't get enough out of the tap in the room - so he enjoyed another out on the patio, with a gorgeous view north to the fjords.
And those are indeed hot tubs behind him - which people are welcome to use.
We continued on to our "campground" for the night. I wanted at least one night where we had a real bed, and enough room to move around like actual humans. So I found Brimnes Cabins on a river in the town of Olafsfjördur. Had the weather been better, I'm sure the scenery would have been stunning. It sure looks purty on the website! Cabin rental includes use of kayaks or row boats - but it was cold and rainy, and we just didn't have it in us to paddle in the rain when we could drink in our hot tub.
This was the one night during our whole trip when we might have had a shot at seeing the northern lights - thanks to a full moon earlier in the trip. However, the bright, full moon was never the issue, because we never saw it - or anything that resembled a night sky - the entire time we were in Iceland. Clouds and fog and rain made certain of that. So, on the night with our best chance for a peek at the northern lights, we had what was probably the worst weather of our trip. C'est la vie. Hot tub, coffee with a (sort of) view, and a real bed. GRATEFUL.
All photos are © Sugarjets Studio - all rights reserved. Please don't steal them. Stealing is shitty.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.