Day 6: Djupivogur to Borgarfjordur Eystri
Route :
Ring Road 1 with a side trip to Seydisfjordur; then 94 to Borgarfjordur Eystri
Campsite : Borgarfjordur Eystri / Bakkagerði village campsite
Ring Road 1 with a side trip to Seydisfjordur; then 94 to Borgarfjordur Eystri
Campsite : Borgarfjordur Eystri / Bakkagerði village campsite
The campground was empty when we went to bed - and we woke up to this. Apparently we're old by international standards. Most of these people were in their 20s, and had crammed in after we fell asleep. We must have been totally zonked because we never heard any of this happen. We were completely boxed in and wouldn't have been able to leave if we wanted to. I got out of the van and was like "What the f---"
And then I turned around and saw this and got completely distracted and grabbed my camera and ran up the hill.
We weren't really in any kind of a hurry, and as I mentioned earlier, businesses don't open particularly early in Iceland. I wanted to check out the café, and we needed some people to leave the campsite before we had any chance of getting out. So we decided to take a hike and see where we ended up.
This is where we ended up.
We spent a couple of hours hiking and exploring the small beaches and coastline here - and just enjoying the sunshine.
Around 9:30 we decided to head back and grab some coffee and breakfast at the town café.
Around 9:30 we decided to head back and grab some coffee and breakfast at the town café.
Yes - that's $7.50 for a bagel & $8.00 for a slice of cake.
Two slices of cake and two coffees : $23.00
Sigh. Another day of ugly driving.
Horses!
I wanted to see Seydisfjördur, so we made the long slog up the high, winding road through the pass and down the other side. It was raining, so we had lunch and didn't stay long. But look at this fun little town!
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Gufufoss is a pretty waterfall on the side of the road (93) that heads into Seydisfjördur.
Not sure how I managed to take that photo on the right, but I like it. Kind of looks like I meant to do it. I didn't.
Not sure how I managed to take that photo on the right, but I like it. Kind of looks like I meant to do it. I didn't.
After we climbed back out of Seydisfjördur, we continued north to Borgarfjördur Eystri - our destination for the night. It's a very remote area - you can see the long approach road on the right in the photo above that eventually leads to the pass you have to drive up through. Once you part ways with the Ring Road, it's a little over an hour to reach the tiny town of Bakkagerði tucked into the fjord on the other side.
We pulled off at the parking area half-way up Vatnsskarð pass that we'd return to the next day to attempt that next hike I was so excited about.
Where I wanted to get to is tucked in behind the mountains in the photo below.
Where I wanted to get to is tucked in behind the mountains in the photo below.
This area is also home to the only wild herd of reindeer in the country - so we were hoping we'd get a chance to see some.
Hunting the Icelandic Wild Blueberry
We stopped for gas just as we were coming in to town - and the pump was right next to this adorable house.
Only 130 people live in this tiny fishing village. But according to legend, it's home to a large population of elves. In fact, we were camped right below Álfaborg - which is where the Queen of the Icelandic Elves is said to reside.
This town is over an hour off the Ring Road, on remote, unlit dirt roads that wind along steep cliffs as you reach the fjord. At some point I think everyone begins to wonder what they've gotten themselves into - too many horror movies. In reality, this is a popular tourist stop in the summer months, and there is even a modern wellness spa in town - an unexpected gem for a tiny fishing village.
(For shits & giggles, click here to see the contrast of this campsite in summer).
This town is over an hour off the Ring Road, on remote, unlit dirt roads that wind along steep cliffs as you reach the fjord. At some point I think everyone begins to wonder what they've gotten themselves into - too many horror movies. In reality, this is a popular tourist stop in the summer months, and there is even a modern wellness spa in town - an unexpected gem for a tiny fishing village.
(For shits & giggles, click here to see the contrast of this campsite in summer).
^ The Queen's Quarters
On top of Álfaborg. It's an easy hike on an established trail to the top. No wonder the Queen likes it here.
This was easily one of the nicest campgrounds we stayed at. The facilities were relatively new and clean - and the bathrooms and showers were great. We certainly appreciated having an indoor area to clean our dishes. And this campground ended up being a free stay - there was no one here to check us in when we got there, and when we asked at the café she told us we had probably missed him and he would likely be by again in the morning. We never saw another human at the campground - even though there was a tent set up nearby.
The Lindarbakki House is a traditional Icelandic turf house - made of brick, wood, and natural turf. Most Icelanders have abandoned this type of home - but this one is still inhabited in the summer months by a woman in her 80s. The locals help her with property maintenance - which apparently includes mowing her roof. :)
We decided to check out the local café - and were surprised to learn Alfacafe is actually quite a large building that serves as part museum, part café, part souvenir shop, part conference room and part karaoke bar. In the summer months it's hugely popular - but in September? We had the place to ourselves. Just us and the fish heads.
The young woman who was holding down the fort at the café gave us her best suggestion as to where we might find some reindeer and told us how to find the road to get there. We decided to get up early and check it out, before heading back to the pass for our next big hike. We finished our coffees and walked back to the campsite to get cleaned up and have some dinner, loving every minute of the quiet, raw solitude - we can count on one hand the number of other humans we saw here.
All photos are © Sugarjets Studio - all rights reserved. Please don't steal them. Stealing is shitty.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.