Day 1 : Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar
Route:
Ring Road East out of Reykjavik to Selfoss; then 30 to 32 to 26 to 208/F208.
Campsite : Landmannalaugar campground
Ring Road East out of Reykjavik to Selfoss; then 30 to 32 to 26 to 208/F208.
Campsite : Landmannalaugar campground
Our Icelandic Saga started in E Terminal at Boston Logan International Airport. We flew Icelandair direct to Reykjavik and after clearing customs, we made our way to the Duty Free shop to buy the "cheap" beer - which was still about $20 a six-pack. We bought Einstock something-or-other - I don't remember which one, only that I somehow managed to grab the variety Mark DIDN'T want - which I then proceeded to drop in spectacularly obvious fashion all over the floor in the middle of the airport. (Mark doesn't call me "Destructor" for nothing). FYI : cans don't bounce - they thud. Seriously - don't put me in charge of that shit when you know what I'm capable of.
We made our way up to the bus transport area, where I discovered I couldn't find my Flybus tickets - because OF COURSE I COULDN'T. The nice woman at the counter took the info off my phone and printed up some tickets and sent us out to load up. Ten points for technology. Pretty sure you don't need to buy your tickets in advance - but I'm one of those people who want every duck in a row to start with so that I can find a way to fuck it up later.
When you leave the airport on Flybus, you're taken to BSI, the main bus terminal in Reykjavik - even if you've purchased a ticket to be taken directly to your hotel. You'll first go to BSI on the big bus, where you'll transfer to a smaller bus and head out for your hotel. It takes about 45 minutes to get to BSI, and that's totally fine because you'll spend that time trying to pick your jaw up off the floor and squish your eyeballs back into your forehead. That is, if the fog and clouds permit you to see the landscape. Sometimes they don't. You gotta be OK with that.
Most - if not all - bus tour operations that start in Reykjavik originate in the BSI building. It's small, unassuming, and was jam-packed with people and backpacks and gear and God knows what else getting ready to disperse into the wilds of Iceland. MUCH too crowded for this irrational, claustrophobic introvert - so we grabbed a cup of coffee in the café (opened at 8 am) and waited for our camper van rep to collect us.
We made our way up to the bus transport area, where I discovered I couldn't find my Flybus tickets - because OF COURSE I COULDN'T. The nice woman at the counter took the info off my phone and printed up some tickets and sent us out to load up. Ten points for technology. Pretty sure you don't need to buy your tickets in advance - but I'm one of those people who want every duck in a row to start with so that I can find a way to fuck it up later.
When you leave the airport on Flybus, you're taken to BSI, the main bus terminal in Reykjavik - even if you've purchased a ticket to be taken directly to your hotel. You'll first go to BSI on the big bus, where you'll transfer to a smaller bus and head out for your hotel. It takes about 45 minutes to get to BSI, and that's totally fine because you'll spend that time trying to pick your jaw up off the floor and squish your eyeballs back into your forehead. That is, if the fog and clouds permit you to see the landscape. Sometimes they don't. You gotta be OK with that.
Most - if not all - bus tour operations that start in Reykjavik originate in the BSI building. It's small, unassuming, and was jam-packed with people and backpacks and gear and God knows what else getting ready to disperse into the wilds of Iceland. MUCH too crowded for this irrational, claustrophobic introvert - so we grabbed a cup of coffee in the café (opened at 8 am) and waited for our camper van rep to collect us.
Once we found each other, it was off to the rental office to meet our campervan that would *hopefully* carry us safely around the country for the next 10 days.
We got all the warnings about driving in Iceland : "Watch the sheep; pay attention to which way the wind is blowing when you open the door or the wind will rip it clean off; be sure to watch the weather and wind forecasts and make your plans accordingly..." ...and then they directed us to all the photos on the walls of the wrecks they've had to clean up over the years.
"We don't want to have to bring Donald the Dump Truck out to get you," they joked.
(Yes, they're even laughing at us in Iceland).
We got passive-aggressively reprimanded for being Americans who would probably wreck the clutch in our Very Yellow Volkswagen, so "maybe don't do that, pretty please and thank you - and you definitely probably shouldn't go into the highlands. It's getting late and the season is over." And then we were on our way. To the highlands. Because WHATEVER - we didn't rent a 4x4 to stay on pavement. Going to the highlands was exactly the reason we rented a 4x4.
(It's not impossible to rent an automatic campervan in Iceland - but like most European countries, they are few and far between - and jacked-up expensive. I opted for the standard because I'm cheap. Pretty sure Mark wishes I'd splurged on the auto).
We headed for Selfoss, which is southeast-ish of Reykjavik on the Ring Road, for our first stop : FOOD. <-- Priorities.
The scenery is spectacular and bewitching and the eyeball porn starts right out of the gates.
We got all the warnings about driving in Iceland : "Watch the sheep; pay attention to which way the wind is blowing when you open the door or the wind will rip it clean off; be sure to watch the weather and wind forecasts and make your plans accordingly..." ...and then they directed us to all the photos on the walls of the wrecks they've had to clean up over the years.
"We don't want to have to bring Donald the Dump Truck out to get you," they joked.
(Yes, they're even laughing at us in Iceland).
We got passive-aggressively reprimanded for being Americans who would probably wreck the clutch in our Very Yellow Volkswagen, so "maybe don't do that, pretty please and thank you - and you definitely probably shouldn't go into the highlands. It's getting late and the season is over." And then we were on our way. To the highlands. Because WHATEVER - we didn't rent a 4x4 to stay on pavement. Going to the highlands was exactly the reason we rented a 4x4.
(It's not impossible to rent an automatic campervan in Iceland - but like most European countries, they are few and far between - and jacked-up expensive. I opted for the standard because I'm cheap. Pretty sure Mark wishes I'd splurged on the auto).
We headed for Selfoss, which is southeast-ish of Reykjavik on the Ring Road, for our first stop : FOOD. <-- Priorities.
The scenery is spectacular and bewitching and the eyeball porn starts right out of the gates.
Dear Tourists : Please don't drive like idiots. Sincerely, every car rental company in Iceland.
When we made it to Selfoss, we stopped into Krónan because the Bonus store wasn't open yet. Stores don't open early in Iceland - our flight got in at 5:45 am, and we were out of the gates with our van slightly after 9 am. Bonus didn't open until 10 (this is widely known as one of the cheapest options for food in Very Expensive Iceland). Krónan, though supposedly more expensive, was actually OPEN - and we decided that was much more important. So we grabbed enough food for a few days, packed it in to the van's cooler and headed for the highlands.
(Pro tip : maybe avoid the freezer section. And definitely absolutely get the Ris Buffs. You'll probably need more than one box). And also a box or two of Hraun. You're welcome.
For those that are gluten free, you won't have problems finding options in grocery stores. I picked up a loaf of gluten free bread, which lasted the entire trip, and some gluten free granola that I sprinkled on skyr at breakfast. Fruits and veggies are readily available - just a bit pricey. But in relation to restaurants and hotel food, it's a steal. Even the convenience stores found at gas stations around the country are well-stocked with food - you'll find less off the fresh stuff and much more of the pre-packaged stuff (hence : convenience) but you'll still find options. And paprika potato chips. That's a popular flavor in Iceland. But they also eat fermented shark and chunks of dried fish, so... keep that in mind.
We did bring some food with us, because I wasn't sure what we'd find. So we had GF mac & cheese, GF spaghetti (just picked up some tomato sauce in the store) and of course, the old camping standby : instant mashed potatoes. We took the mega-packs and combined leftovers with fresh scrambled eggs one morning for breakfast.
(Pro tip : maybe avoid the freezer section. And definitely absolutely get the Ris Buffs. You'll probably need more than one box). And also a box or two of Hraun. You're welcome.
For those that are gluten free, you won't have problems finding options in grocery stores. I picked up a loaf of gluten free bread, which lasted the entire trip, and some gluten free granola that I sprinkled on skyr at breakfast. Fruits and veggies are readily available - just a bit pricey. But in relation to restaurants and hotel food, it's a steal. Even the convenience stores found at gas stations around the country are well-stocked with food - you'll find less off the fresh stuff and much more of the pre-packaged stuff (hence : convenience) but you'll still find options. And paprika potato chips. That's a popular flavor in Iceland. But they also eat fermented shark and chunks of dried fish, so... keep that in mind.
We did bring some food with us, because I wasn't sure what we'd find. So we had GF mac & cheese, GF spaghetti (just picked up some tomato sauce in the store) and of course, the old camping standby : instant mashed potatoes. We took the mega-packs and combined leftovers with fresh scrambled eggs one morning for breakfast.
In general, the grocery stores are bright and happy. But the freezer section is a freakshow of decapitations and grotesquerie.
Ris Buffs, on the other hand, could be the world's Answer to Everything. We should study that. I volunteer as Tribute.
Ris Buffs, on the other hand, could be the world's Answer to Everything. We should study that. I volunteer as Tribute.
Driving on 32 toward 208, we passed a train of 15 or 20 Icelandic horses being led across the ashy landscape. We buzzed by so fast that I had to grab a couple of stills from a very bouncy GoPro video. Despite seeing numerous claims that these horses are super friendly and will walk up to you whenever you stop - this was not our experience. I never got to scritch one nose. NOT ONE.
Up to this point, we had no issues with roads. Iceland 30 & 32 between Selfoss and the 208 are paved and WAY better than even the best road you'll find in Michigan. But the 208 is an entirely different story - though it's still better than most roads you'll find in Michigan.
We hung a right at the sign for 208/F208/Landmannalaugar. Mark spied a waterfall on the left, just past the Sigalda Power Station. There's a dirt road that leads up to a parking area where you'll find the stunning Sigöldufoss waterfall. This is also where the blacktop ends. Just past the power station, the 208 becomes the F208. Strap on your 4x4s; Ibuprofen at the ready.
^ Click to enlarge
THIS is F208. For 26 LONG kilometers, it's a spine-crushing washboard track of black, volcanic ash. You will not be able to do more than crawl along this "road" unless you have a gigantic highland rig and you deflate the tires. (We learned on Day 3 that this is how the big buses do it. Pull over, deflate the tires, and then proceed to haul ass). If you drive out here, you will pass - or be passed by - the beefiest buses you've ever seen, flooring it across the central highlands at speeds that won't seem possible. And even with the scenery, you will be left wondering, "FOR THE LOVE OF GOD - how much further can it possibly be?" Fahrvergnügen is a lie.
But it's all worth it, if the Gods of Weather smile upon you. Trust me on this.
Anyone driving an F road in Iceland MUST have 4WD. It's non-negotiable. If you're spotted on an F road in a rented 2WD Volkswagen, you will get reported. Icelanders don't mess around. Once you spend some time on Icelandic F roads, you'll understand why. F208 is the ONLY way into Landmannalaugar that does not involve fording a river. IN YOUR CAR. There is a small stream crossing at the campground, but there's a parking lot on either side so if you don't have a snorkel jeep and don't want to see if your car can swim, you can park it and walk in.
But it's all worth it, if the Gods of Weather smile upon you. Trust me on this.
Anyone driving an F road in Iceland MUST have 4WD. It's non-negotiable. If you're spotted on an F road in a rented 2WD Volkswagen, you will get reported. Icelanders don't mess around. Once you spend some time on Icelandic F roads, you'll understand why. F208 is the ONLY way into Landmannalaugar that does not involve fording a river. IN YOUR CAR. There is a small stream crossing at the campground, but there's a parking lot on either side so if you don't have a snorkel jeep and don't want to see if your car can swim, you can park it and walk in.
As we bounced along, and inched closer to the campground, the clouds parted and the sun came out - and I may have squealed a little
with excessive, uncontrolled happiness.
with excessive, uncontrolled happiness.
^^^ Shitty phone super-zoom of the final approach to Landmannalaugar. The cars on the far right are parked just before the stream crossing, which was a bit deeper than it looked - but doable. The cars on the left are at the campground proper. We gambled, and won. Our girl could swim.
^ This is not the stream you drive through. This is a baby stream that runs in front of the parking area. Ducks swim in it. The stream crossing is quite a bit bigger and more imposing when you're trying to drive someone else's car through it.
Landmannalaugar is the northern terminus of the Laugavegur Trail - Iceland's most popular hike, and routinely considered one of the best in the world. It stretches 55 km from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmork in the south - and can be extended roughly 23 kilometers more if you want to continue on from Thorsmork to Skogar on the Ring Road. The trail starts behind the main building at the campground - you can see people starting out in the photo above. That jagged rock pile they're standing on is the edge of a massive lava flow that you'll get a bird's eye view of in a later photo.
Landmannalaugar is also known for its natural hot springs, or "hot pots" as they're called in Iceland. Basically, it's a natural, geothermally-heated hot tub. We never ventured over, because as you can see in the photo below, it was standing room only, even well into the night. That's a big NOPE for these two introverts. I have a fairly large bubble, and I prefer to keep most people out of it - especially if I don't know them. But after a long day hiking in the highlands, I can understand why these famous hot springs are so popular.
Landmannalaugar is also known for its natural hot springs, or "hot pots" as they're called in Iceland. Basically, it's a natural, geothermally-heated hot tub. We never ventured over, because as you can see in the photo below, it was standing room only, even well into the night. That's a big NOPE for these two introverts. I have a fairly large bubble, and I prefer to keep most people out of it - especially if I don't know them. But after a long day hiking in the highlands, I can understand why these famous hot springs are so popular.
There are hot pots all over the country - some are well known and easy to find, others are well hidden and require some effort. If you're interested in finding them, this site can help. Nearly every town has a swimming pool, which is usually geothermally heated - these are great options if you aren't near a hot pot, or if you just want to grab a shower. Just be prepared for a total lack of privacy - and you should probably be cool with public nudity, because you gotta wash your bits before you swim, and private shower stalls are few and far between.
I was so grateful for blue skies and sunshine. Landmannalaugar was at the very top of the things I wanted to experience, and Iceland graciously granted my wish. We had some difficulty figuring out which trails went where - we could see people walking on ridges, but there were no signs - only lines on the overpriced map we bought at the camp office. We had no idea how to get where we wanted to go - so we kind of just said f*ck it and started walking.
I was so grateful for blue skies and sunshine. Landmannalaugar was at the very top of the things I wanted to experience, and Iceland graciously granted my wish. We had some difficulty figuring out which trails went where - we could see people walking on ridges, but there were no signs - only lines on the overpriced map we bought at the camp office. We had no idea how to get where we wanted to go - so we kind of just said f*ck it and started walking.
^ Map check.
The trail we chose took us down along a stream and into craggy lava fields. While these were REALLY cool, I could see tiny dots of humans making their way up the ridge line on the mountain next to us - Blahnukur - and that's where I wanted to be. I desperately wanted to be a tiny ridge dot. You can see two tiny hikers on the ridge at the top right of the photo above.
^ Click to enlarge
We kept walking, trying to find another way up that stupid mountain. The further we went, the steamier things got. The mountain above is Brennisteinsalda - and yes, it's really that colorful. Landmannalaugar is a super-saturated chromatic wonderland - rhyolite and sulfur provide some of the widest spectrum of natural color in the world. The trek to this area is worth every ounce of time and energy it takes to get there.
^ Map check. Again.
From here we could finally see trails heading up Blahnukur. See the one popping right out of Mark's head in the photo above?
THAT'S THE ONE WE SHOULD HAVE TAKEN.
But, alas - Iceland had different plans. If you look carefully, you'll find a teeny, tiny dark speck on the mountainside about an inch to the right of Mark's head. See that? That's a human. Slogging up the impossibly steep trail that Iceland chose for us.
From here we could finally see trails heading up Blahnukur. See the one popping right out of Mark's head in the photo above?
THAT'S THE ONE WE SHOULD HAVE TAKEN.
But, alas - Iceland had different plans. If you look carefully, you'll find a teeny, tiny dark speck on the mountainside about an inch to the right of Mark's head. See that? That's a human. Slogging up the impossibly steep trail that Iceland chose for us.
Not everyone who visits the Highlands gets to see this, because it's often hidden behind a thick veil of fog and clouds. I will forever be grateful for the tiny window of gorgeous weather that Iceland bestowed upon us. Landmannalaugar was absolute magic.
And STEEP. My God - so steep.
The kind of steep where you stop every ten feet or so and pretend to just take in the sights - and then take several pictures of those sights, just to be convincing - but really what you're doing is trying not to die. That's what I'm doing in the photo below. Simply trying not to die on Day 1.
The kind of steep where you stop every ten feet or so and pretend to just take in the sights - and then take several pictures of those sights, just to be convincing - but really what you're doing is trying not to die. That's what I'm doing in the photo below. Simply trying not to die on Day 1.
This woman was afraid of heights, and was literally hugging the side of the mountain here. She eventually made it to the summit,
crawling at times (weren't we all!) but always moving forward. Brava, girlfriend!
crawling at times (weren't we all!) but always moving forward. Brava, girlfriend!
^ Click to enlarge
THESE VIEWS, THOUGH.
This is an incredible perspective looking back toward the campground - you can see it just to the right of the massive lava flow - this is the bird's eye view I mentioned earlier. The landscapes in every direction are breathtaking and it's nearly impossible to believe that you're actually seeing what you're seeing. My brain still doesn't believe that I was in this place, seeing these sights and doing these things.
Finally. Blahnukur.
We took time on the way down to soak in the warm late afternoon light. We. Were. So. Lucky.
In the photo above you can see where our mistake in route-finding was. Signage was non-existent, so it was an easy mistake to make. But you can see the trail we walked in on just to the left of the green outcrop in front of Mark. The trail we walked out on went over the bridge just above his head. In our defense, we knew there was a trail that goes out into the valley via that bridge - but didn't realize there was also one that went up the mountain. So we zigged when we should have zagged, and ended up paying for it. But we had the hike Iceland decided we should have. And in hindsight, I'm totally OK with that.
As we were walking off the mountain and on to the flat, orange sand below, we passed a group of maybe 6 or 7 photographers headed up the mountain with their expensive gear and tripods, no doubt to capture a spectacular sunset over the Central Highlands. We no sooner got back to the van and clouds started moving in on the summit. By the time we ate dinner, the summit was completely enshrouded in a heavy fog. There would be no sunset photos for those folks. Access denied.
We learned very quickly that Iceland doesn't reveal itself all at once. It only shows you what it wants you to see.
As we were walking off the mountain and on to the flat, orange sand below, we passed a group of maybe 6 or 7 photographers headed up the mountain with their expensive gear and tripods, no doubt to capture a spectacular sunset over the Central Highlands. We no sooner got back to the van and clouds started moving in on the summit. By the time we ate dinner, the summit was completely enshrouded in a heavy fog. There would be no sunset photos for those folks. Access denied.
We learned very quickly that Iceland doesn't reveal itself all at once. It only shows you what it wants you to see.
When we got back to our Little Yellow Volkswagen, this beast was parked right beside us - and we immediately decided that this is how the Highlands are meant to be done. It's like Mad Max meets Game of Thrones. These people are doing life right.
We made dinner and some coffee in our little camper van kitchen, which came complete with pots, pans, utensils, cups, a sink, a water container, a cooler/fridge, and just about everything necessary with the exception of a coffee pot. (I packed my french press - thank you, Melissa Mullen - and it was the best. decision. ever). We grabbed a bag of coffee at the Kronan back in Selfoss and kept some creamer in the cooler. Best camp coffee I've ever had.
Also : you don't need to worry about water in Iceland, whether you're camping or not. It's everywhere. Don't buy bottled water. Just bring a Nalgene or some other reusable water bottle - you'll find water fountains at every campground, at every gas station, in every town. It's free, and it's the best water I've ever had. Crystal clear and ice cold right out of the tap.
Also : you don't need to worry about water in Iceland, whether you're camping or not. It's everywhere. Don't buy bottled water. Just bring a Nalgene or some other reusable water bottle - you'll find water fountains at every campground, at every gas station, in every town. It's free, and it's the best water I've ever had. Crystal clear and ice cold right out of the tap.
I don't know what Mark was telling me here, but he was probably drooling over the Apocalypse Survival Vehicle behind me, trying to figure out how one goes from wanting one to having one. We gave in to jet lag a little after 9 pm local time - 4 pm back home. After a 5 hour flight, almost no sleep, and a full day frolicking in the most magnificent landscapes, we were officially done. Rain moved in overnight, and it stayed with us through the next morning, so we decided to make an early exit - and see what Iceland had in store for us next.
Hint : it wasn't sunshine. :-/
Hint : it wasn't sunshine. :-/
All photos are © Sugarjets Studio - all rights reserved. Please don't steal them. Stealing is shitty.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.
Don't be shitty. And please don't make me be mean.